The Evolution of Women’s Footwear: From Ballet Flats to Sustainable Trainers

Footwear has always been a reflection of cultural, societal, and economic shifts. Over the past 20-something years, women's footwear has undergone a fascinating transformation, echoing the changing priorities of comfort, fashion, and sustainability. From the ballet flats of the 90s to the recent resurgence of the ballet flat and everything else in between, here’s a look at how trends in women’s footwear have evolved.

 

The Ballet Flat Era

The 1990s was a time of relaxed, understated fashion, and this was reflected in women’s footwear trends, from platform shoes (think Spice Girls) to Doc Martens.

Though not yet a dominant trend, ballet flats began to emerge as a more sophisticated and minimalist alternative and would go on to gain deeper traction in the early 2000s, with Kate Moss leading the charge and lending the prim ballet flat a rock n' roll edge.

Inspired by timeless styles worn by icons like Audrey Hepburn, these minimalist ballet shoes became a wardrobe staple for their versatility and comfort. Brands like Bloc and Repetto capitalised on this trend, offering chic, understated designs that could seamlessly transition from casual to formal settings.

The appeal of ballet flats lay in their simplicity. They complemented a wide range of outfits, from skinny jeans to tailored attire, while offering a respite from the sky high heels that would come back with a vengeance in the early 2000s.

 

The Push Back of High Heels

The iconic HBO series Sex and the City, which aired from 1998 to 2004, was instrumental in glamorising high heels, particularly luxury brands like Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo, and skyrocketed them into becoming household names.

By the mid-2000s, the show’s influence positioned high heels as more than just footwear— they were symbols of empowerment, independence, and a glamorous lifestyle.

The fashion industry celebrated sky-high stilettos, platforms, and wedges, and women around the world aspired to emulate Carrie's fearless and fashionable Sex and the City persona, cementing high heels as an essential part of the early to mid 2000s wardrobe.

However, as the decade progressed, cracks began to appear in the high-heel obsession. Women started voicing concerns about the physical discomfort and long-term health implications of wearing heels. This discontent paved the way for a revolutionary invention: the foldable shoe.

 

The Rise of Foldable Flats

In 2007, British startup brand Cocorose London invented the foldable shoe. It emerged as a practical yet stylish solution for women navigating the discomfort of high heels. Compact and portable, these shoes could be easily folded and stashed in handbags, providing instant relief from high heels, whether for commuting to work or popping on at the end of a long day (or night out). By offering stylish designs that prioritised comfort, functionality and well-being, the foldable shoe became more than just an 'emergency' shoe that folds - and the hybrid ballet flat was born. As women have become increasingly conscious and demanding of comfort and style, the hybrid ballet flat offers all-day wear but with the added benefit that the shoes can also fold, making them ideal for travel or popping into handbags when heels need to be whipped out for occasional wear.

The foldable flat movement highlighted a shift in priorities. Women no longer felt the need to suffer for fashion, and brands responded by innovating around comfort. This was a precursor to a significant movement in footwear that would gain momentum in the 2010s: the rise of the fashion trainer.

 

Trainers Take the Spotlight

By the 2010s, trainers had transcended their athletic origins to become a fashion statement. Athleisure—a trend blending athletic wear with everyday fashion—took the world by storm.

When Karl Lagerfeld transformed a mundane grocery store into a couture runway for Chanel's SS14 catwalk show, it was the trainers that truly stole the spotlight. Instead of models donning traditional high heels synonymous with luxury fashion, Lagerfeld sent them down the supermarket aisle in sequin-embellished trainers paired with classic suits and elegant evening dresses. This unconventional pairing challenged the long-standing association between high fashion and discomfort.

The impact of this moment was immediate and far-reaching. Trainers, once relegated to gyms and casual wear, were suddenly elevated to high-fashion status. Lagerfeld’s nod to trainers as a couture accessory opened the floodgates for the fashion trainer movement and cemented trainers as a permanent fixture in the fashion landscape, shaping the trajectory of women’s footwear for years to come.

The appeal of trainers was undeniable. They aligned with the growing emphasis on wellness and fitness whilst providing much sought-after comfort. Social media further fueled this trend, with influencers showcasing trainers in a variety of contexts, from streetwear to office wear.

 

The Impact of COVID-19 and the Athleisure Boom

The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 marked a turning point for footwear trends. With people confined to their homes, and workplaces embracing remote setups, comfort became the primary focus. Heels and structured shoes were set aside in favour of slippers, trainers, and athleisure-inspired designs.

Brands quickly adapted to the new normal. The demand for supportive yet stylish footwear skyrocketed, leading to the popularity of cloud-like footwear. Trainers, in particular, became the go-to choice for their versatility, comfort and ease of wear.

The pandemic also accelerated conversations around sustainability, prompting brands to rethink their manufacturing processes. As consumers became more conscious of environmental impact, the demand for eco-friendly footwear began to grow.

 

The Return of Ballet Flats

In recent years, the fashion pendulum has started to swing back to ballet flats. But these aren’t the same designs of the early 2000s. The modern iteration of ballet flats cater to today's discerning customers and feature updated silhouettes, improved comfort technology, and sustainable materials.

The resurgence of ballet flats speaks to a broader desire for understated elegance. As the world emerges from the casual cocoon of the pandemic, women are seeking styles that balance comfort with sophistication. Ballet flats, with their timeless appeal and comfort, fit the bill perfectly.

 

Innovations in Sustainable Footwear

One of the most exciting developments in recent footwear trends is the focus on sustainability. Brands are leveraging innovative materials like plant-based leather, recycled plastics, and bio-based textiles to create eco-conscious designs.

Companies like Allbirds and Veja have set new standards for transparency and major players in the footwear industry are also adopting greener practices. Nike’s "Move to Zero" initiative and Adidas’s commitment to ending plastic waste are just a couple of examples.

The shift isn't limited to just the bigger players, however. Brands such as Cocorose London have launched the UK's first plant-based and recycled materials vegan trainer collection, utilising cactus leather, recycled cork soles and recycled plastic bottles.

 

Looking Ahead

While ballet flats are enjoying a revival, trainers are far from disappearing. In fact, they remain a cornerstone of contemporary fashion, evolving to meet the demands of a more sustainability-focused audience.

The evolution of women’s footwear over the past 20 years highlights a shift in values. From the practicality of ballet flats to the glamour of high heels, the convenience of foldable shoes, and the enduring appeal of trainers, each trend reflects a cultural moment in time.

Today, the focus is on purpose, comfort, and versatility. Women want footwear that complements their lifestyles whilst aligning with their values. As the industry continues to innovate, one thing is clear: comfort, sustainability and giving back are a key part of the bigger picture.